To know woodchucks is to adore them, but even if you remain skeptical about having them as neighbors, there are preventive measures and humane solutions to help you live peacefully with these fascinating members of the urban wildlife community.
Step One: Is it really a woodchuck?
Peaceful coexistence with woodchucks is entirely possible. If you begin to see mysterious losses in your garden, first try to discern whether this is actually the work of woodchucks. If your plants have been neatly clipped, a woodchuck or rabbit probably has been nibbling at your crops.
But if the leaves have a ragged appearance, it is more likely that a deer has browsed your garden.
There are several humane ways to dissuade woodchucks from taking over your garden. As woodchucks are fearful of humans and generally cautious, making more frequent visits to your garden and adding an object that will blow around in the wind—such as a beach ball—will usually discourage visits.
Step Two: Private dining
Another approach is to lure woodchucks away from your garden by planting a swath of wildflowers and grasses a distance from your house; they will prefer to feed at the safer distance from humans. Even a typical suburban lot can usually accommodate a small patch of meadow. You can also plant some species of flowers that appeal to you, but not to woodchucks. Gardeners report that lobelia, gaillardia, day lilies, and columbine do not appeal to the woodchuck's palate.
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This woodchuck-proof garden is is a mere 25 feet from an active burrow. ©The HSUS/L.Simon |
Step Three: Fencing
The best way to woodchuck-proof your garden is to put up a simple mesh barrier. All you need is a roll of 3 ½ - 4 foot high green vinyl garden fencing (16 gauge, with 2 inch by 3 inch squares) or chicken wire, some landscaping staples, a piece of Plexiglass, a mallet and some fence stakes.
Two top secrets for making a successful barrier:
1.) The top portion of the fence needs to be 2 ½ to 3 feet high but it should be staked so that it's wobbly—i.e. the mesh should not be pulled tight between the stakes but rather, there should be some "give" so that when the woodchuck tries to climb the fence, it will wobble which will discourage him.
Then he will try to dig under the fence.
2.) So that he does not dig under the fence, be sure to extend your mesh fence straight down to the ground and then bend it and extend the final 12 inches outward along the ground, away from the garden, in an "L"-shape, which creates a false bottom. Secure it firmly to the ground (using a mallet) with landscaping staples so the woodchuck cannot go under it.
When the woodchuck digs and hits this mesh flap, he will think he cannot dig any farther and give up. It will not occur to him to stand back a foot and then dig.
3.) For the door to the garden, put a 26 inch high piece of Plexiglass between 2 stakes, and run a piece of mesh under it which extends at least 12 inches in front (secured with landscaping staples) to prevent woodchucks from digging under. The Plexiglass door will be slippery and high enough to prevent the woodchuck from climbing over it but low enough for people to step over. Most hardware stores will cut Plexiglass to whatever size is desired.
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| Unwanted house guests can be evicted humanely and permanently. ©The HSUS |
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Step Four: (Humane) Eviction
If you wish to exclude a woodchuck from a burrow under your house, porch, or outbuilding, wait until late summer, after any young have been weaned.
One humane harassment technique is to partially dig out the entrances and clear away surrounding vegetation.
Another approach is to place quantities of used kitty litter inside all burrow entrances. A third possibility is to place a one-way door at the main entrance to the burrow; this lets the animal safely leave but not return.
After the animal has left the burrow, pack the entrance lightly with hay.
If it remains undisturbed for three to five days, you can assume the burrow is unoccupied. To permanently close the burrow, excavate the area around the entrance and bury a three-foot-square section of heavy-gauge welded wire (three-inch squares) one foot deep across the entrance of the burrow.
