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| Annie Judah at Fashion Week 2005 |
» See Fashion Week 2006.
See Fashion Week 2005 in Photos.
By Annie Judah
September 16
The fashion accessory of choice today is a paper coffee cup.
On the final day of Olympus Fashion Week, the tent shows no signs of life until noon. The non-stop parties and fashion shows can test the endurance of even the most energetic fashionista.
Two soy mochas and I am still not quite up to speed. Pierre, having exercised his stamina filming the Canadian seal hunt a few months back, is doing better. One black coffee and he is all smiles, joking with the folks at the booths and the early birds who have dragged themselves to the tents.
Between sips, Pierre and I agree that for our maiden voyage through Fashion Week we have done quite well. Already we’re thinking of more ways to promote cruelty free fashion on our February trip.
Next Wednesday I'll return to New York City for a meeting of the Fashion Group International Career Day committee and then to attend the Green Festival with Atom from Gaelyn and Cianfarani. As a leader in environmentally friendly fashion, she is always celebrated at these events.
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© 2005 Grzybowski/The HSUS |
| An outside tent at Fashion Week 2005 |
With part of my mind I'm figuring our how to get my clothes clean and repacked before heading out again. But I'm also planning tactics for keeping up the pressure on the fur industry, reaching out to animal-friendly fashion leaders, and spreading the word to consumers about the cruelties of fur. Fashion Week may be over, but we will never forget the animals who continue to suffer for vanity.
September 15
With all the sinewy legs and hips on display at Fashion Week, it seems ironic that, besides the shows and parties, the other thing the fashion elite loves is...eating. It wasn't easy finding a spot for our lunch meeting—the stylish bistros close to Bryant Park fill quickly during the Fashion Week breaks. At last I found an Italian place that could handle a party of our size, and Pierre and I set off to meet with the ladies from Cosmo UK and the designer Marc Bouwer.
Marc Bouwer is the crème de la creme with faux fur and dressing Hollywood starlets for the red carpet. His graceful, polished designs are famous for making women of any size and shape look fantastic. He has dressed such stars as Angelina Jolie and Sarah Jessica Parker, and even avid fur wearers like Star Jones are fans of his glamorous dresses.
Besides all that, he is an inspiring advocate for animals. We have spoken at length about how he loves animals and about ways he can help the animals exploited by the fur industry as well as by the meat, egg, and puppy mill industries. Marc has saved many animals by setting trends with cruelty-free fashions and making those who are compassionate towards animals look as beautiful on the outside as they are on the inside. Marc's big heart makes him one of the HSUS's favorite fashion stars.
That is why I wanted to introduce him to Cosmopolitan UK's editor Shelly Vella and fashion director Sam Baker. These two women will make history with their fur-free campaign this fall, and it only made sense to introduce them to the man who has shown that faux fur gives the wearer all the luxury of being a movie star and none of the shame of supporting the fur industry.
We all chatted and laughed over bread sticks, olives and pasta. Marc told funny stories from his latest trip to Los Angeles and Shelly filled us in on her impressive activist background. As Sam and Shelly ran off to catch the Vera Wang show, Pierre and I walked Marc and his manager Paul Margolin to their car. We kissed goodbye and talked about meeting next week over some Vietnamese dumplings to discuss progress with the Humane Society's upcoming Fashion Student Design contest, the "Cruel vs. Cool" contest. Marc promised to bring his two little Yorkie terrier rescues, Samson and Delilah.
Then Pierre and I headed back to the tents. Zac Posen was doing an evening show, and I needed a soy mocha to keep up the pace.
September 14
It is always awkward going to the show of a designer who uses fur. Although I try to see as much of the fashion industry as possible, the show is spoiled when I see the skins of helpless animals paraded in front of me. No matter how beautiful the models are, when they are draped in dead animals their high cheek bones and long necks lose all their grace and become sinister.
Carlos Miele has been known to trim in fox and mink—but not this time, to my relief. His show had a Latin feel with flamenco guitar music and layered ruffles of cloth replacing the trim he has used in previous years. Antique lace bolero jackets and corset tops in black, white and rustic rosy pinks added a romantic and feminine feel. Alicia Keyes sat front row taking notes. When Pierre and I left we were smiling because there had not been a scrap of animal fur in sight.
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© 2005 Grzybowski/The HSUS |
| Fashion icon Patrick MacDonald |
Outside the tent, near the free bar, is where the stylish mingle between shows. I was thrilled, but not surprised, to encounter the fabulous Patrick MacDonald, a well-known devotee of high fashion and an icon at
Fashion Week. With his trademark colorful suits and dramatic make-up, he stands out in any crowd. MacDonald shook my hand with the confidence and warmth of a diplomat, and was happy to pose with our anti-fur ad, kissing my cheeks New York-style before heading off to his next show.
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© 2005 Grzybowski/The HSUS |
| "Thumbsucker" stars Kelli Garner, Lou Taylor Pucci, and Tilda Swinton, and director Mike Mills, at the movie premiere |
Tonight was the premiere of "Thumbsucker." We chatted with the stars before the movie and then joined them at the party afterwards. Lou Pucci asked us to send our plush seal with an anti-fur pin to his sister. Kelli Garner, the actress who wore one an HSUS t-shirt in the movie, talked with Pierre at length about our rescue work in Louisiana and Mississippi. The creative force behind
Paper Magazine was there, as well as the DJs Andrew and Andrew. I chatted with graphic artists and underground press, and discussed the needless use of animal fur in men's fashion with an editor at
GQ.
We walked down the street to meet Atom Gaelyn from Gaelyn and Cianfarani and Ariadna Elena Correa Calleja of C-C Jewelry. We hung out at the Fashion Week Daily party drinking cosmos in the fur-free club Home. Atom and Adriana were both impressed with the fur-free policy at this hot club. While there we had our photos taken by Entertainment Magazine, then called it a day, easily catching a cab since it was 2 a.m. I hated to fall asleep knowing that the party was still going on, but another important day was fast approaching.
September 14
Not to brag, but I'm a gal who can wear heels. I can walk (even run) on those tiny stilts, a talent that came in handy yesterday as Pierre and I raced down 5th Ave to meet Heather Mills McCartney. We were running from the Fashion Week tents, where we picked up a copy of the Fashion Week Daily. The HSUS was able to place an ad in their Tuesday edition—no small feat. While we hurried out of the tents, we noticed several people commenting on the ad. Almost everyone we spoke to agreed with the message and wanted to have their photo taken with the ad. But there was little time for chatting. We were late for our lunch date and had to run (literally).
Let's start by stating the obvious—Heather Mills McCartney is beautiful. She is a former super model, the kind of willowy blonde we picture swaying down the runway. She's married to a Beatle, Sir Paul McCartney, and they have a child together. But she is also an accomplished activist. Her work on human rights issues alone is very impressive. Of course, it is her recent expansion into animal issues that got our attention.
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© 2005 Grzybowski/The HSUS |
| Heather Mills McCartney, activist for animals and spouse of Beatle Paul McCartney |
I met Heather at a party held by the Fur Free Alliance last spring in London, and we spoke briefly about her desire to help the 40 million animals killed each year for the fur industry. Her sincere devotion to ending this unnecessary practice was touching.
So you can imagine how thrilled we were when she called and asked us to join her for lunch. She came in with the grace of a movie star and kissed each of my cheeks in true New York style. Pierre and I ate amazing vegan pasta dishes at Il Gattaprado on 54th with Heather and her sister/manager Fiona Mills. We talked about fur industry issues, outreach, and even future projects she could contribute to. Pierre told stories from last year's Canadian seal hunt, and we discussed the horrible conditions on rabbit farms because of the lack of protective legislation.
But we also chatted casually about her becoming vegan, and what amazing cruelty-free shoes were available out there. I don't always say this, but I am really looking forward to working with her in the future.
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© 2005 Grzybowski/The HSUS |
| Shelly Vella, editor, and Sam Baker, fashion director, of Cosmopolitan UK |
After the lunch we had to run yet again to Chelsea to meet with Sam Baker, the editor of
Cosmopolitan UK and her fashion director Shelly Vella. These two women are going to bring compassion back into the height of fashion—from inside the fashion industry.
Cosmo UK is going to make history this fall with their campaign "Nice Girls Fake It," in which their entire magazine will be fur-free and they will promote faux fur and alternatives to that fuzzy look. I was able to flip through their October issue when we met with them at the studio where they were going to shoot Heather Mills McCartney wearing cruelty-free clothing.
Not only was I impressed with the pages of their magazine, but after talking with Sam Baker and Shelly Vella, I was completely taken with their sincerity and consistent vision for their magazine. I have spoken to many writers, editors, directors—what have you—from the fashion magazine industry. So many of them say that they are against the use of animal fur, but put it on their pages because of the advertisers and for political reasons. It was great to meet women who not only made it to the top of their field through talent, but also haven't compromised to get there.
We made plans to meet the next day to discuss how we could expand this fur-free campaign to U.S. magazines, and then we had to go. Pierre and I were running to the Fashion Week Daily suite to pick up our tickets to their party tomorrow night.
It was nice to sit for a bit and talk to the others who were resting before heading back to the tents. We joked with a writer for Playboy and a PR guy from Water music; then, as luck would have it, we ended up sitting right next to Redd Stylz, a partner at the newest hot club in NYC: Home.
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© 2005 Grzybowski/The HSUS |
| Redd Stylez of the fur-free New York nightclub Home |
Home recently made news by having a fur-free policy at the door. If you show up wearing fur, you can’t come into the club. When we exchanged cards, he posed for a picture with our
Fashion Week Daily ad and thanked us for our work.
It was late when Pierre and I finally took a "Peda-cab" home. As we sped through the streets in a bicycle-powered rickshaw, dodging cabs and fudging red lights, we discussed our plans for tomorrow. Because that’s the thing about Fashion Week—it is over before you know it, and we have a responsibility to the animals to make the most out of every minute. Even now as I sit writing this, my feet on fire from the abuse of the day before, I have my eye on the clock because we have a show first thing in the morning.
September 13
Over the past few days I have noticed some distinct themes for Spring 2006.
1. Metallics—belts, shoes, bags, even pants—all done in silver, bronze, and especially gold. Nicole Miller's show presented fitted, neutral colored dresses with patches of bronze. Baby Phat showed tiny silver shorts with matching bags and heels, paired with a tight white blazer. The hippie chic and Boho mismatch seems to have been replaced with modern glamour. This has upscale shine, and to my relief it lacks the fuzzy purses and random animal skins of last year.
2. Trench coats will still be everywhere. Alexandre Herchcovitch displayed a full skirted black and white geometric print coat with floral appliqués on the collar. Y&Kei choose classic black with offset buttons. Almost every show used scarves, but as at the Ashish N Sony show they were knotted and tied fabrics that showed the collar bone and a bit of skin. Rather than hide a woman's neck behind a pelt, designers seem to want to highlight this flattering area with loose blouses, low-cut coats, and small scarves.
3. The bags still have that "Heiress" feel with the thick metal chains, and the shoes varied from simple black flats to neon platforms. But one sure thing is that before you invest in those snakeskin cowboy boots or that shearling jacket, you should see what designers say we'll be wearing in a few months—as well as look into the reality of the fur trade.
It is the ugly little secret the fashion industry doesn't want to talk about. The unthinkable cruelty involved in farming and trapping animals for their fur makes even the most self-centered fashionista look away. Most can't face what they promote on magazine pages or runways, and I can't say I'm surprised. It can be very hard to face the senseless cruelty that you have promoted.
Choices
Yet, when I am in the tents, rarely do I meet someone who will defend their fur wearing. Those unusual people who think that animals should suffer for their luxury items always use the same feeble argument: "It's my right to choose."
They do have a right and an ability to choose. The animals, unfortunately, have no choice. The foxes pacing in barren filthy cages with their sensitive feet on metal mesh can't choose whether they will be anally electrocuted. The bobcat in agony with his paw crushed in a leghold trap can't choose whether the trapper will shoot or strangle him.
Not only do we humans have the ability to choose, we have the responsibility to change our world through our choices.
Pierre and I can hand out leaflets and we can run educational ads about fur, but it is the consumers with consciences who will eventually end the barbaric use of animal fur.
By not buying garments made or trimmed with fur we send a powerful message: Exploiting animals for their fur is not only cruel but bad for business. If we cannot appeal to the fur industry’s sense of compassion maybe we can appeal to their business sense – with the help of consumers.
September 12
The past weekend flew by in a blur of foreign names, shiny bags and uncomfortable shoes. Even today as I sit sipping my soy mocha, my arches still ache from my favorite, beautiful, stylish...crippling boots. I can't imagine what those sparkly nymphs parading into the Twinkle show in their 8-inch platforms must be going through.
Friday was a long day that started with a demonstration against Karakul at the Prada store. As the upper-crust crowd strolled past us, they halted at our pitiful photos of baby lambs doomed to become fur coats. Many shoppers paused at the Prada doors and chose not to go in. Almost everyone took a leaflet and thanked us for the massive effort put forth by The Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) to help the animals who survived Hurricane Katrina.
After Prada, I scrambled into a cab for the Gottex show. The lovely layers of warm golds, rusty bronzes and burnt oranges were a welcome change from most of the dark grays and blacks we're seeing this fall. Pulling styles from warmer climates, the Gottex show had a Caribbean feel that layered ruffled collars rather than using the fur-trimmed Santa Claus look. The look proved Gottex's originality—and warm heart.
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© 2005 Grzybowski/The HSUS |
| Rapper Jay-Z arrives in a limo |
The Tommy Hilfiger Party that night glittered with celebs like Jay-Z, Paris Hilton and Josh Duhamel. The Black Eyed Peas performed while the rich and beautiful mingled amongst the famous and talented.
Saturday was the Baby Phat show at the Radio City Music Hall. Most people who love animals know that Russell Simmons, founder of Def Jam Records, is an amazing advocate for those who can't speak for themselves. He has spoken out on animal issues ranging from vegetarianism to the cruelties of dog fighting.
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© 2005 Grzybowski/The HSUS |
| Josh Duhamel and Stacy "Fergie" Ferguson at Fashion Week |
But, it was his wife Kimora Lee Simmons' fashion show that collected money to help The HSUS's Hurricane Katrina rescue efforts. We have all heard stories of survivors choosing to stay in their flooded homes rather than abandoning their non-human family members.
Pierre Grzybowski and I sat in the VIP section and spoke to reporters about HSUS's rescue work as well as our campaign to promote animal-friendly fashion. I met the designer behind Mal Sirrah whose cutting-edge urban style is not only refreshing but just plain gorgeous. Paparazzi were everywhere and so were smiling folks in awe of the Simmons family and the glitzy fashionista-inspired clothes.
Sunday began painfully early. It required caffeine and a savvy cab driver to get there in time for my first show. I saw Y&Kei, Ashish N Soni, and Alexandre Herchcovitch, and sat with fashion reporters from everywhere from Chicago to South Africa. InStyle and Marie Claire both took my photo and interviewed me. I chatted up long-time fashion industry leaders and heard from those who have been in the industry for years that fur "is a fad, like everything else." Whenever a look floods a market, it dies down quickly.
A fashion reporter from South Africa smiled when she heard about our work. "With so many advances being made in synthetics, there is no excuse to kill defenseless animals for clothing. I'm glad I met you and know that The Humane Society is out there doing this," she said.
As I sip my coffee in my comfortable Converses, I am exhausted from this whirlwind, this Super Bowl of the fashion industry.
September 9, 2005: Most people have no idea of the amount of preparation necessary for a demonstration of any size. At The Humane Society of the United States (HSUS), we don't take demonstrations lightly. We double-check every detail before we take to the streets. Today we will stand in front of the Prada store on 57th Street in New York, asking them to spare baby lambs. As with demonstrations, most people have no idea of the amount of suffering behind karakul fur.
A few years ago, HSUS investigators filmed fur farm operations in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. The images they brought back made even the most hardened investigator cry. They found pregnant ewes routinely slaughtered for their babies' fetal pelts. They filmed wobbling newborns being butchered for a skin too small to make a purse. The tiny pelts with their tightly curled hairs look like scraps of crushed velvet, and are so small it takes dozens of them to make the full-length jackets and coats typically made from this type of fur.
This fur, often labeled as karakul, appears in most high-end stores in Manhattan. Karakul, astrakhan, Persian lamb and broadtail are all names for the same kind of cruelty, bandied about to confused consumers and salespeople. These coats of fetal lamb fur are some of the most expensive garments on the market, and they hang, corpse-like, in stores like Prada and Dolce & Gabana. Yet I can't remember the last time I saw a star wearing karakul. This fur carries status only for those who desperately want to get noticed. But really, should animals suffer for some wannabe's insecurities?
Often I will browse through these stores and ask a salesperson if they will carry broadtail lamb this year. Most times I'm told in confidence that the broadtail or karakul coats "aren't worth it." They say the tight curls will fray after a few wearings and that I could only count on wearing the coat one season. When I ask why, then, is it so expensive, there is a hesitation. No one wants to say.
So we will pass out educational leaflets in front of Prada, reaching out to a public that may not know that—whatever they paid for their "status symbol" garment—there are literally millions of animals every year who will pay with their lives.
September 8, 2005: People who learn my title often ask me why The HSUS needs a Fashion Industry Consultant. My answer to them is simple: it's part of our mission to create a more humane society.
Few people realize that, when it comes to suffering, there is little difference between the dogs and cats we share our homes with and the foxes and minks who are exploited and killed each year for frivolous fur garments. An estimated 40 million animals die each year for unnecessary and outdated status symbols like fur coats or fur trimmed purses. These animals need someone to speak up for them, too. My job at The HSUS is to make the world a more compassionate place through the promotion of cruelty-free alternatives to fur.
As I prepare to go to New York City for Olympus Fashion Week, I am building connections with the creative and economical forces behind the fashion industry itself. My colleague Pierre and I have scheduled outreach events, demonstrations, meetings at fashion magazines, fashion shows, photo shoots, a movie premiere, and more...so I'm going to be very busy promoting alternatives to using animal skins as fabric.
I'm looking forward to this chance to speak up for fur-bearing animals, and I hope that by the time the tent comes down in Bryant Park we will have made a difference that could be seen on runways, on the glossy pages of magazines, and on the hangers of our favorite stores.
Annie Judah is Fashion Industry Consultant at The HSUS. To contact The HSUS's Fur-Free Campaign, please use our e-mail contact form.
