Phuket, Thailand—Where to begin? Maybe I should start at the end—with the rescue of one of the dolphins stranded in a makeshift lagoon in Khao Lak.
I was on my way from visiting the Phuket shelter—more on that later—when I got a call from the Associated Press' Miranda Leitsinger who was in Kkao Lak covering another story. She got a tip that there were people at the lagoon. She wasn’t clear if these people were catching the dolphin or clearing the catch area as discussed in yesterday's planning session. She called to check out the details, which I couldn't provide right then. Fifteen minutes later, she called back to tell me that in fact one of the dolphins, the adult, had been caught and released to the sea. We were able to ascertain that the now freedom-bound dolphin had only surface lacerations, not deep cuts as we earlier feared.
None of the teams mentioned in yesterday's report—Myanmar Dolphin Project, Greek Fire and Rescue, SOS Wildlife Rescue Center or HSI Asia—were present for the rescue, like we were for the previous attempts to save the dolphins. Nonetheless, we were all happy to hear that at least one dolphin was released. Miranda reported that the dolphin was easily netted by the local residents. The fate of the adolescent dolphin is still uncertain; some fear the worst for the young one.
I sent a text message to Jim Styers from Myanmar Dolphin Project to let him know the adult dolphin had been caught. He wanted to know if anyone had taken any statistics—was the animal rehydrated, did it get antibiotics, etc? I told him I didn’t know, but thought probably not since the rescue was conducted by local fishermen who would not have had the resources. Jim suggested that someone should be checking the beach regularly as stressed or tired dolphins will beach themselves. That made me think of what Miranda said: that it was easy to catch the animal because she seemed tired. I hope this is a victory.
Edwin Wiek from SOS Wildlife Rescue Center went to the site immediately when he heard the news, and stayed until dark surveying from the shore to see if the other dolphin surfaces.
Wave after Wave of Dogs
Our first experience with the dogs was in Khao Lak. It has been reported that the dog population here as been reduced by 50%. Now whether those dogs got swept to sea or just ran to the hills is uncertain. I can only compare the canines' mysterious disappearance to my experience in Bali with our street dogs. We did not see street dogs along Kuta Beach for nearly five weeks after the October 2002 bombings in Bali; the same thing holds true here: You do not see dogs in Patong Beach in Thailand, which like Kuta Beach is a popular tourist spot. And there are no carcasses around Kao Lak.
The only veterinary facility in the area, recently built by Dr. Trethpa (who divides his time between Phuket and Khao Lak), was completely demolished. This was devastating not only to the veterinarian, but also to the locals who have started calling the Minister of Livestock for help with their animals, both livestock and small animals.
As reported earlier this week by Margot Park, manager of the HSI-sponsored Soi Dog animal rescue project in Phuket, the dogs are getting hungry. That was very evident when Dr. Putu Listrianai Wistawan, Jill Robinson, Animals Asia, and I joined Margot, John Dallie, and Yvonne de Gaay Stekelenburg on their regular feeding routes. This dropped us smack dab into the reality of what these dogs are facing. The dog population has been estimated at 17,000 dogs.
Our first stop was at the Patong river, where there is nothing left of a small subsistence fishing colony. I had to hold back tears at the sight of a dog standing on the foundation, the only thing left of the house, looking out to the river as if anticipating the arrival of his owner. He now joins other unfortunate homeless dogs.
When Margot and Yvonne arrived, the dogs immediately recognized the truck, and started running across the bridge and barking beside the vehicle. It was amazing. I had a flash of the pied piper. Margot said the dogs used to jump into the river and swim to the other side and wait for her at the feeding spot, but they were afraid of the water. We fed them in a different place than usual—it was a concrete foundation slab with blue-and-white print linoleum. I guessed we were feeding them in what used to be someone’s kitchen.
The area was flattened, and a broken pipe pumped sewage into the river. The people, dogs, and chickens have no fresh water. It is not hard to figure out that there are going to be additional problems for this little enclave.
Next, we drove along the Patong coast road, winding up the hill and stopping at the regular feeding stations. In a flash, dogs came out of the underbrush, eagerly awaiting the rice and dry food mix. Yvonne noted that five dogs she usually saw on the beach were now in this feeding area—another indication that the dog populations were displaced. As a result of this territory shifting, we witnessed unrelenting dog fighting, which Yvonne and Margot were quick to break up.
On the way back, we stopped to catch a dog whose tail had been chopped off by a machete or knife; the tail had a nasty infection, and had been laying on the side of the road for a day or two. John grabbed the dog so fast you hardly knew what happened. At the same location, we dropped some food off to some locals.
Our next stop was Wat Kamala, once a beautiful temple, which was heavily damaged. Three monks and 15 of the 25 dogs there perished. We were received so warmly by the monks. The relationship between the monks and the dogs is very special. The monks are the primary caretakers of the dogs, but now all of them need a little caretaking—they all are making do in the ruined temple, which rests just 30 meters from the beach.
The main problem facing these homeless dogs is the fact that the restaurant and food stalls, which used to feed them, are all destroyed. The area that was once full of restaurants, food sellers and tourists is now just rubble.
Phuket Shelter: From Bad to Worse
The Phuket shelter was built in May 2003 on what, at first glance, looks like a bucolic acreage for the dogs. The reality of the shelter, however, underlies the pastoral setting. I can tell you straight up that this place would have likely become a morgue if not for Soi Dog, which has worked to spay, neuter, provide veterinary care and feed the 300 dogs here.
Why this shelter needed rescuing by Soi Dog is a long story. Suffice to say that the local municipality didn't devise a comprehensive operational plan when it envisioned a shelter in which to round up all the dogs in Phuket, so that they wouldn't be an eyesore in tourist areas. It quickly developed into a sanitation and humane problem, and the government tried to distance itself from the shelter, which only exacerbated the problem. Margot naturally kept a close watch on the dogs, bringing food regularly and providing veterinary care when needed. She also launched a spay/neuter program to prevent the dogs from breeding.
Thanks to Margot and Soi Dog, the pooches are in good condition at the shelter. These dogs are, for the most part, some of the best-looking mutts I have ever seen. And there are more arriving every day, as the shelter is seen as a "legal" dumping ground. It in not unusual for Margot or the shelter workers to find dogs thrown over the perimeter fence, dumped onto the highway that runs along the perimeter fence, or tied to the entry gate, waiting for someone to arrive and rescue them.
And that brings me to the close of my story. It is not a happy ending.
Yesterday, 14 dogs were sedated and moved from their native island, Khia Paittang, which was devastated. From a population of 300 people, only 85 remain. The island is known for its deer; the people who survived are subsistence deer hunters and don’t want the dogs on the island anymore. The residents fear they can’t feed the animals, and they don’t want the dogs killing deer, either. The dogs arrived at Phuket anesthetized, and woke up in the kennel block confused. Five of the 14 dogs looked depressed. These dogs are pets who lost their owners. Margot, bless her heart, photographed the dogs so she can publish an appeal to find them new homes.
